MB Talks with Jennifer Carlsson – The Beauty Brand Expert

Content Type: Health & Beauty

Consumer, Cosmetics, Events, Health & Beauty, Industry, Interview, Marketing, Retail, Sustainability

Posted on 6 July 2023

With global revenue over $571 billion US dollars and trending upwards, health & beauty has proven to be a resilient and dynamic sector.

Able to reshape itself around expanding innovations, shifting consumer demands, and intensifying competition, it takes a keen eye and expert knowledge to navigate this ever-evolving industry.

In an exclusive interview, MacGregor Black’s global health & beauty specialist, Kriisti Atherton, sits down with Jennifer Carlsson, the beauty brand expert and Founder of market research business, Mintoiro to delve into her journey, her expertise, and what makes her such a sought-after figure in the industry.

Kriisti Atherton: So, Jennifer, for those who haven’t come across your profile yet, can you introduce yourself and tell us what makes you the ‘Beauty Brand Expert’?

Jennifer: Oh wow, where do I start?

Well, my name is Jennifer Carlsson, I’m a 30-year-old beauty brand strategy consultant, data analyst and designer from Stockholm.

I’m also the founder of my own professional services business, Mintoiro, and I launched the Beauty Design Awards in 2020.

At Mintoiro, I work closely with independently owned beauty brands to help them get loved by the people that care, and take market share from big corporations…

At the moment, I spend most of my time doing competitive market research, which I love, and it also helps be inform the consulting work I do.

I guess a lot of people might also know me from LinkedIn. Every month I post updated lists of the ‘Top 100 Brands Trending on Instagram’ across skincare, makeup, haircare, and fragrance. Those I’ve been posting for a few years now.

What makes me the beauty brand expert? Hmm, since I’m constantly doing research, I’d say I probably know more about beauty brands than anyone else. I’m not claiming to know more about the industry than anyone else, of course, but on brands specifically, I know what I’m talking about.

I always say that I’m an information sponge. I want to know everything about everything, I want to understand every aspect of the beauty industry and exactly how everything works.

I’m always talking to people in all parts of the industry’s value chain, and I learn so much from those conversations. But when I think of what really makes me an expert, I think of a quote that one of my mentors, Errol Gerson used to say… ‘the main thing is keeping the main thing the main thing’. You’ve got to do one thing well and focus on one thing at a time, because if you’re trying to do two different things at 50/50, you’re never really doing anything at 100, and how could you gain that expertise? Beauty is my main thing and I’m always giving it 100.

Kriisti Atherton: So why is Beauty in particular an industry you’re so passionate about?

Jennifer: I mean, I’ve always been into fashion and makeup. I really love the industry; I love the people I get to chat with, and coming from a design background, the creativity in the beauty industry just speaks to me.

In my early 20’s, I used to be a fashion blogger. My main focus was cute Japanese street styles and I was quite well known in that scene.  

When I initially started my own business, I decided I was going to do design, so when the time came to launch Mintoiro, it just made sense to design for Beauty Brands. For my first year in business I was mainly doing brand identity and packaging design for cosmetics brands.

Kriisti Atherton: You mentioned earlier that you spend a lot of your time compiling market research for your clients. Can you talk us through your process?

Jennifer: There’s lots of different parts that go into it.

I’m constantly adding more to my database, most of which is gathered through manual data entry. This is time consuming but really beneficial because, coupled with my eidetic memory, it gives me a good overview of everything that’s in my database. The only exception to this is social media metrics, I update this every month, but I use a scraping tool to gather that data and automatically import it to my database.

For my ‘Top 100 Trending Brands’ lists, the way I rank companies is completely data driven and based on followers, engagement, and growth over time. This is important because it’s not interesting to look at what brands have the most followers; I try to capture which brands are steadily growing whilst maintaining an engaged audience.

I also look at the products that brands are launching, their ethics, certifications, which markets they’re in, their target audience and who owns the brand. I have so much fun doing the research, some people find it boring, but I just love it.

Each report can take several months to complete, and when it’s done, it’s really exciting to be able to see all the patterns emerging in the industry.

I’ve recently finished a report on emerging colour trends for beauty brands, which was grounded in tons of data analysis, but presented it in a really visual way. I looked at the latest colour trends in beauty product packaging, and as part of the research, I tagged the exact colour shades of over 16,000 products from over 3,500 different beauty brands. I then split the 35 trend colours I identified into 7 different colour moods.

I also tagged the colours of around 4,000 runways looks from the 2023 Spring and 2023 Fall collections, as well as looking interior design, sneakers and other adjacent industries, as you tend to see a lot of overlapping trends across different industries.

It takes so much time to do this research. Straight up, it just takes so much time. I don’t have a secret thing that gathers it all super quickly for me, I’m doing data entry pretty much all the time. But I really enjoy doing the market research side of things, so the time it takes isn’t a problem for me.

Kriisti Atherton: Your audience is really engaged with your content, including myself and a number of my clients. But from your perspective, why do you think it is that so many brands choose to work with you in particular?

Jennifer: I’m very interested and engaged in the beauty industry specifically.

When I’m researching, I look at brands from a holistic perspective because you can’t get a full picture of what’s actually going on in the industry from just looking at quantitative data.

I talk to all kinds of people in the industry, I look at visual aesthetics and I also try on a ton of products from a range of different brands, which gives me another type of data to add to my holistic view of the industry. Fortunately, lots of brands send me their products to try, even some that I wouldn’t typically be able to buy myself because they don’t usually ship to my location.

I’d say I also have a really good overview of everything going on in the industry so, if you want to understand your competitors and how you can differentiate your beauty brand; I’m the person to talk to.

For the brands that may not have the budget to fund a huge research project, I also offer pre-made research reports on my website, because I want to make my research affordable for beauty brands at all different stages of their growth cycle.

Kriisti Atherton: You recently attended the Clean Beauty in London event and gave a fantastic speech on ‘The Latest Trends in Sustainable & Conscious Beauty’, what were the key trends you identified?

Jennifer: My talk at Clean Beauty in London mainly focused on brands doing sustainability the right way to show that doing better is possible. That’s something I care about deeply and I’m well-read on the subject.

I find it shocking how much greenwashing is going on in the beauty industry, particularly around the use of plastic. I’m not a purist, I’m not saying that brands can’t use any plastic, but I think they should be honest about the fact that plastic is not sustainable, right? Brands should be truthful and tell their consumers that “we choose to use plastic packaging to be able to offer our products at an affordable price point”, which could up the conversation for consumers to tell the brands “we would pay more for your products if you stop using plastic packaging”. But if consumers are being led to believe these products are already sustainable, then the brand can’t really have those conversations.

People are getting really tired of the greenwashing and sooner or later, they’re just flat out not going to accept it. For example, using biofuel or fossil fuel doesn’t make much of a difference. Turning either into plastic causes just as much pollution and people based near plastic plants are getting sick from the chemicals.

In Mississippi, there’s a stretch of land where over two hundred petrochemical production plants are based, and people call the area ‘Cancer Alley’. When you look at the whole picture like that, you start to realise the bigger issues and how necessary it is that we as an industry approach them.

Kriisti Atherton: As well as a more focused approach towards sustainability, what other trends have you noticed shaping the beauty industry?

Jennifer: Well, I’d say a lot of beauty brands are rethinking the way they approach marketing.

I’ve heard a lot of brands saying that they’re not getting as much return on their ad spending, which I think will see a lot of companies exploring alternative options. I mean, to see a good return on paid advertising, brands should really be spending at least 25K a month on it, and honestly, if a brand has that much to spend, I’d say they’re better off using it elsewhere.

My advice would be to take that money and spend it building partnerships with more influencers, I think the optics of that is way better than just throwing money at ads. Especially if you’re working with influencers that aren’t that big yet, and have a targeted beauty audience, because they produce genuine content that’s real and honest. And if you’re a brand that’s aiming for transparency, this fits well with that goal. Plus, you’re giving money back to hard-working, diverse content creators in the community.

Although, I’d say that if brands go down the influencer route, they need to do it right. I’ve heard some horror stories about beauty brands paying marginalized influencers less than their other influencers, which is just unacceptable. Aside from the fact it’s totally wrong, it’s also likely to hurt your brand’s reputation as people in the beauty industry talk to each other and these things always come out before long.

So, yeah, doing things right is super important, people don’t want to buy from brands that don’t.

Kriisti Atherton: I’ve combed through pretty much every inch of your blog by now and I’m always recommending it to others. In addition to your own, which other blogs/publications would you recommend for beauty fans to check out?

Jennifer: One of my favourites is the Founded Beauty podcast by Akash Mehta, he’s one of the founders of Fable & Mane, which is a plant-based haircare brand inspired by ancient Indian beauty secrets!

On the podcast, Akash interviews beauty founders and entrepreneurs about their business journeys. It’s extremely insightful and it’s a great podcast for people who really want to understand the industry.

Kriisti Atherton: And Jennifer, as The Beauty Brand Expert, which brands should our audience be keeping an eye on right now?

Jennifer: Oh, wow, that’s hard to say. There are loads of really great brands out there.

One brand that I mention often is Dip.

They’re a haircare brand that does shampoo and conditioner bars. I’ve tried a lot of products like this and theirs is the best on the market.

They mostly work with smaller refill stores, and they don’t spend anything on advertising, their brand is spread entirely by word-of-mouth. I think that’s so interesting. Plus, they’re really inclusive, they don’t do different bars for different hair types, they’ve made sure their product can be used by anyone, you just pick the scent you like.

Also, a Swedish brand that I’m really liking at the moment is Manasi 7. I’ve been using their products recently; they have a cheek and lip tint that I actually use for both my lips and cheeks. I also really like their branding. In Sweden, there’s a big market for minimalistic designed brands with a very specific look to them, and these guys have nailed it.

Oh, I’m also really fascinated with exploring the Indonesian beauty market at the moment. They have some really cool looking brands with great formulations. They look like luxury brands that could be sold in Sephora. A good example to check out is the brand Dew It Skin. I love their products.

Kriisti Atherton: You’ve given us some great insight into your expertise and what you’re doing as The Beauty Brand Expert right now. What’s next on the cards for you and your business?

Jennifer: My biggest focus in 2023 is creating the research reports that I sell through my website.

I find the work very satisfying and enjoyable, and creating my own reports allows for me to put all my strong sides to use.I have a few different types of reports in the pipeline and I’m excited to reveal and share them with everyone soon!

I’m also doing Beauty Design Awards for the fourth year running. The award is completely free, and brands are welcome to submit their products for consideration until the end of August. You can find more information on the website, beautydesignawards.com.

The award looks at the holistic experience of a product, so both packaging and formulation are just as important.

Kriisti Atherton: Jennifer, thank you so much for your time today and we look forward to seeing yours and Mintoiro’s success in 2023 and beyond.

Latest blogs & insights

Health & Beauty, Practice Review

Posted on 3 July 2023

The ‘Lipstick Effect’ shows no signs of slowing.

An economic term originating from the health and beauty industry’s unwavering resistance to a drop in disposable income, the industry remains resilient as many experience drastic shifts in consumer behaviour.

We’re seeing recent trends continue to solidify themselves in the market, such as the desire for a true multi-brand shopping experience, with a wide range of products, price points, and producers available ‘under one roof’. Retailers such as Sephora are experiencing particularly successful periods due to wide scale investment across physical activations (opening their flagship UK retail store in London’s Westfield shopping centre), digital campaigns, sustainability efforts, and new partnerships with brands such as TikTok and Haus Labs by Lady Gaga.

Other trends we are seeing continue to gather pace include subscription services such as Glossier, the conscious movement toward more clean beauty and B Corps, and the rise of the indie brand. Where although L’Oreal dominates market share, particularly in Western Europe, consumer remain open to new brands, largely driven thanks to effective marketing, influencer, and WoM campaigns. A trend we’re further developing within a large number of our clients’ Sales and Marketing functions.

Legacy trends from Covid, such as the demand for ‘at home’ alternatives, are continuing to solidify themselves in the market. Many have successfully integrated technology into their products, with both new hardware and software. Software such as AI has revolutionised the shopping experience allowing for greater customisation, reduced lead times, and lower return rates, creating an overall improved customer experience.

Another factor continuing to drive considerable consumer and manufacturer decision making during Q1 was sustainability. The rise of B corps in the industry being a prime example, with our consultants supporting a number of client’s sustainability and ethics plans through much of Q2. Support ranges from consultations, talent management, vacancy management, up to full team builds, within NPD, HR, Sustainability & Ethics Specialists, and Sustainable Packaging, across Europe and the US in particular.

During Q2 of this year, our dedicated practice began a range of new partnerships, working on retained propjects with brands in the UK, France, and Australia, as well as supporting long-standing clients in the US.

Strong talent pipelines have been built to support a number of long-term projects in Q3, with a number of exciting Commercial, eCommerce, and Operations roles set to be released, and several interim contracts being managed by our practice.

Our consultants have attended both physical and virtual events at the beginning of the year, including an event in London, for female founders, discussing challenges in the market and supporting start-ups to multinational SME’s, as well as the Clean Beauty Awards, and conducting an MB Talks with Nordic Beauty Expert, Jennifer Carlsson.

If you’d like to discuss our support on a current or future role, or are looking for your next career move, get in touch with our dedicated Health & Beauty Practice today via hello@macgregorblack.com or by calling +44 (0)191 691 1949

Latest blogs & insights

Consumer, Cosmetics, Health & Beauty, Industry, Insight, Retail, Social Media, Sustainability, Technology

Posted on 20 February 2023

Currently valued at over $571billion, the beauty industry is a global superpower. A superpower not just growing, but also in the midst of a momentous change.

As consumer behaviour continues to evolve, technology, social media, and the Covid-19 pandemic are sculpting the industry’s evolution. Now more than ever, customers favour convenience over tradition, with many moving toward DIY, and away from salon treatments.

But what alternatives are out there? Are they effective? And are they here to stay?

MacGregor Black takes a closer look at the evolution of the global beauty industry, why consumers are opting for at-home alternatives, and which brands are delivering the best salon-quality products, right to your sofa.

Are Salons Set to Recover?

Nail, hair, and beauty salons we’re among the worst hit during the recent Covid-19 pandemic. Turnover fell by an average of 45%, social distancing limited footfall, and as a result full-time employment in the industry plunged a whopping 21%.

But with any change… comes opportunity.

The sudden starvation from years of habitual beauty routines, coupled with a severe drop in revenue, spurred on a burst of innovation across the industry. In 2021 alone, the beauty tech revenue rocketed to $3.8 billion, with a range of new and exciting products available. This new formed bond between beauty and technology opened up a world of opportunity for customer and creator alike. Modern self-applied beauty treatments have evolved far beyond at-home facials and DIY pedicures. Utilising a mixture of light emitting diode (LED), microcurrent technology and even augmented reality (AR), brands are now looking to rival salons with the launch of their own high-tech equipment, for at-home use.

Light Emitting Diode – LED

First discovered by NASA in the 90’s, LED lights were used to observe effects on plant growth in space. Noting it’s interesting healing abilities, the technology has since shown great promise, quickly gaining interest among health and beauty manufacturers.

LED light therapy exposes the skin to varied wavelengths of light such as, red, near infrared, yellow, green, and blue light. According to research, the red light stimulates collagen growth, while blue light targets bacteria that causes acne, green light can alter pigmentation, and yellow light can have strong healing qualities.

Research also suggests that LED treatments can prove effective when it comes to reducing the symptoms of aging or sun-damaged skin, as well as treating certain skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. When administered by a salon professional, the equipment they operate is usually significantly more powerful, with treatments often priced between £80-£100 per session.

In an effort to replicate the same results at home, health, and beauty brand, CurrentBody, have launched what they’ve dub the ‘Skin LED Light Therapy Mask’, a substantial looking piece of equipment that combines both red and near infrared light wavelengths to ‘kickstart your skin’s collagen production’. And it doesn’t stop there. CurrentBody have also incorporated the same LED technology in their ‘Skin LED Hair Regrowth Device’, which the beauty brand proudly declares will “penetrate deep under the skin’s surface for instant and long-lasting results”.

Therabody, MZ Skin and Dr Dennis Gross Skincare are brands that have also released LED light therapy devices, all of which featured in a recent edition of British Vogue, labelled ‘The Best LED Face Masks’. At a cost ranging from £100 to £600, depending on the manufacturer, those planning on reaping the benefits of LED Light therapy can have the potential to save both time and money. A growing focus across much of the NPD within the Consumer and Retail industries.

Microcurrent Technology

Hoping to wipe surgical facelifts off the map, microcurrent technology applies weak currents of electricity directly to the face in order to stimulate and tighten the muscles. The whole idea behind microcurrent technology is that it can be used to improve blood circulation and stimulate collagen production to give the face a youthful glow.

Kriisti Atherton, MacGregor Black’s Health & Beauty Specialist sat down with Hrvoje Sarac, Chief Operating Officer at wellness brand, Foreo, to learn more about their use of microcurrent technology in their range of increasingly popular products. The creators of the well-known ‘Foreo Bear’ and ‘Foreo Bear Mini’ pride themselves on ‘making self-care simple, easy, and enjoyable‘ with their range of effective, clinically tested devices.

“Microcurrent technology is something that’s been around in science for years,” Said Sarac.

“We haven’t invented this technology. All we’ve done is simply adapt it to fit in both your hand and your budget. The Bear and The Bear Mini are our best-selling products, and how they work is, the microcurrent and T Sonic massage feature boosts microcirculation and lymphatic drainage, which feeds nutrients to the skin cells and eliminates toxins.

Before we launched the products, tons of research went into ensuring we used the right frequency to really get the right results, and paired with our jelly serum that acts as a conductor, our customers now have everything they need to get that professional face-lifting result at home. So many people say that they can feel the difference even after just one use, but if you really want the best results then we definitely recommend using it daily. It’s like going to the gym, if you go once a week, you probably won’t see much of a difference, but going to the gym every day, you’re going to see the results.”

One of the most frequently asked questions consumers ask about microcurrent devices is, are they safe? Kriisti highlights this topic in her conversation with Foreo’s Hrvoje Sarac, who mentions the potential risks of using devices incorrectly and emphasises the need for safety.

“Customers should always read the instructions before using these products, as with some of them on the market right now, there is actually a risk of burning your skin if the devices are either made, or used incorrectly. What makes our products truly unique is our highly advanced Anti-Shock System that actually scans and measures the customer’s skin’s resistance to electricity, and automatically adjusts the microcurrent’s intensity to ensure it’s not too intense. The Bear in particular is the most effective, safe-to-use, microcurrent facial device available, and that’s clinically tested.“

Also on the list of beauty brands currently investing in microcurrent technology is, MyoLift, NuFace and Magnitone, having also released their own range of products designed for at home use.

Augmented Reality

No longer a futuristic feature in sci-fi movies, augmented reality has crept its way off the big screen and into our everyday lives.

In the world of health & beauty, it can allow customers the ability to virtually experiment with different looks in real time. AR has, in short, revolutionised the way many of us interact with our favourite brands and has personalised the way we experience their products. These advanced tools use facial recognition and AR technology to analyse customer’s skin tone, facial structure, and features to recommend cosmetics and skincare products in real-time. However, one AR feature proving widely popular amongst the younger generation has recently come under scrutiny…filters.

When first launched in 2015, filters (or ‘lenses’ as they were first referred to as) were primarily used for entertainment. Fast forward to today and social media platforms provide filters as an alternative to more permanent and costly alternatives. With options including enhancing their lips, lift their brows, change skin pigmentation, bone structure, eyes, lips, and the list goes on. All with just the click of a button. The numbers on the other hand suggest the opposite. Many plastic surgeons are reporting an increase in plastic surgery treatments, directly attributed the use of social media filters, giving a potential glimpse at a new you. Professionals have dubbed this social media surgery craze ‘Snapchat Dysmorphia’, declaring that it could soon be an overwhelming problem amongst younger social media users.

As an expansive range of new at-home devices are being launched, beauty brands may perhaps look to combat this growing concern in a sustainable and ethical manner, guiding their customers down the path to safer alternatives.

With this task in mind, many beauty technology companies have strategically partnered with influencers and celebrities in a bid to aid the switch from salon to sofa. Through engaging posts, reels & stories, influencers, and celebrities aim to showcase the brand’s latest high-tech products to their followers, demonstrating that you don’t need a salon appointment to see salon-quality results.

As we can see, technology, social media, and a shift in consumer thinking have all left a significant imprint on the beauty industry’s exciting evolution. Whilst a global pandemic has transformed our collective focus, advancements In technology have all but accelerated innovation, resulting in a plethora of inventive, state-of-the-art beauty technology.

So, whilst there is little sign of us eliminating salons altogether, the rapidly growing amount of advanced at-home products have, without a doubt, birthed a new approach to beauty. Today, it’s LED light masks and microcurrent facial massagers, tomorrow, it’s endless possibilities…

If you’d like to speak to a specialist in our dedicated Health & Beauty practice, get in touch today via 0191 691 1949 or email us at hello@macgregorblack.com

Latest blogs & insights

Advertising, Case Study, Consumer, Cosmetics, Fashion, Health & Beauty, Industry, Insight, Marketing, Retail, Social Media, Technology

Posted on 27 October 2022

When social media first popped up in the late 90’s, none of us could have predicted the astronomical growth it would undergo, nor the influence it would ultimately hold over our lives.

What began as a way to simply connect with friends, has since become one of the most powerful global platforms of our time, able to reach millions of targeted people in milliseconds and influence the way we shop, vote, and even feel. Evolving far beyond your typical networking tool, social media has opened up opportunities for not only the every-day-scroller, but for businesses also.

But is the way we use social media set to change? And have brands had enough?

MacGregor Black takes a closer look at social media, and why some brands are taking a permanent break from it.

Social Media vs… The Battle of the Brands

With Facebook alone connecting 2.11 billion users all over the globe, it’s no surprise that social media has come to play an integral part in many of our lives. But with such scale, how is it possible to monitor and control 2.11billion individual narratives? The simple answer is… it isn’t.

With such publicity, comes scrutiny. And as platforms such as Facebook continue to embed themselves deeper into our society, many users are beginning to highlight some of their potential negative effects. One particular issue that continues to dominate the conversation, is social media’s relationship with our mental health.

In recent years, research has provided us with a plentiful evidence pool linking social media usage with a number of mental health issues like depression, anxiety, and body dysmorphia. According to a 2022 Healthline study of 1,042 U.S citizens, 29% of participants of all age groups felt they needed to take regular social media breaks, in order to feel a benefit to their mental health. This number increased to a shocking 46% amongst 15–24-year-olds.

So, what can be done about this, and who’s responsibility is it to take control?

Lush Cosmetics

Noting the negative effects that social media was having on many of its customers, global cosmetics company, Lush, took a stand; and in 2021, decided to cut ties with online platforms Instagram, TikTok, Snapchat and Facebook.

The British retailer released a statement to accompany their decision:

“From 26th November 2021, the global Lush brand will be turning its back on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Snapchat, until the platforms take action to provide a safer environment for users. This policy is rolling out across all the 48 countries where Lush operates. In the same way that evidence against climate change was ignored and belittled for decades, concerns about the serious effects of social media are going largely ignored now. Lush is taking matters into its own hands and addressing the issues now, not waiting around until others believe in the problem before changing its own behaviour.” 

Tesla Motors & SpaceX

Pre-dating Lush’s decision by almost three years, in March 2018, tech billionaire Elon Musk joined the race against social media; deliberately deleting both Tesla’s and SpaceX’s Facebook business pages.

Having regularly aired his opinion publicly, it is widely known that Elon Musk distrusts the way Facebook handles their consumer data. The decision then came to pull both his business pages, following a tragically historic week for the social media company, one that still sits fresh in our memory. In 2018, the Cambridge Analytica scandal prompted a wave of mistrust against Facebook, which later gave rise to the #deletefacebook hashtag.

At the time of the scandal, WhatsApp Co-Founder, Brian Acton tweeted in protest, “it is time #deletefacebook”, in which Musk responded sarcastically, “What’s Facebook?”. The Silicon Valley entrepreneur then went on to tweet that he thought Tesla’s Facebook page was “lame”.

In a final act, Musk was challenged by Twitter users to delete Tesla’s and SpaceX’s pages, “if he really was ‘the man’”, and in typical form, Musk declared he would delete them immediately. Sure enough, in under 30 minutes both business pages were cut from Facebook, and the following media attention, combined with the Cambridge Analytica Scandal, caused Facebook’s stock to plunge 6%.

Elon Musk has since gained the reputation as the modern day ‘Robin-Hood’ of free speech, as in April of this year, the eccentric billionaire made another daring move. This time, against Twitter.

In an effort to force change, on April 14th of this year, Musk made a bid to buy the social networking site for $54.20 per share, putting one of the world’s richest people at the helm of one of the world’s most influential platforms. Musk declared that, should the deal go through, his first priority would be to crack down on data management. However, only weeks after Elon’s rather rambunctious offer, he sought to terminate the deal, citing concerns over the social media company’s use of bots on the platform, artificially inflating their user numbers. Claims which were later supported by a company whistle blower. Twitter has since sued Musk to follow through with the acquisition. The judge overseeing the case has given both parties until the 28th of October to close the deal or face a trial in November.

Bottega Veneta

In 2021, globally established fashion house, Bottega Veneta announced their own bold move to completely cut social media from their marketing strategy.

Creative Director, Daniel Lee, stated in an interview with The Guardian that, “there is a mood of playground bullying on social media which I don’t really like. I wanted to do something joyful instead… I don’t want to collude in an atmosphere that feels negative.” However, despite personal comments from Lee, the Bottega Veneta company refrained from releasing an official statement to explain their swift exit from social media. Leading fans to believe that perhaps this was the company’s latest strategic move in creating the ultimate luxury brand?

Kalyani Saha Chawla, former VP of Marketing & Communications at Dior believes luxury brands need to re-consider the fine balance between over-accessibility and exclusivity, quoting to Grazia UK that,

“luxury brands are diluting their image by using the same social mediums that every high street brand is utilising. Luxury stands for exclusivity, and if it’s all over Instagram and Twitter, it becomes too accessible, which might not resonate with a niche audience.”

A message that sat fittingly with Bottega Veneta’s social media departure, as it came less than a month after it unveiled its exclusive “Salon 01 Spring/Summer Show”, which was being secretly recorded at the time. Shortly after Bottega Veneta’s decision to ditch social, luxury apparel brand, Balenciaga quickly followed suit, wiping all of its content from Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. Perhaps another strategic move with this decision also preceding the brand’s first haute couture show in over 50 years…

Answering the Burning Question… What Happened Next?

In today’s society, it’s near impossible to picture a global company succeeding without a social media presence, but alas…some of our favourite cosmetics companies, automotive developers and high-end fashion brands claim they are already paving the way to find a successful future without ‘the Gram’.

Lush Cosmetics

After announcing their departure from its social media channels in 2021, cosmetics brand Lush turned to creating what they felt would be, authentic, quality content on the company’s online site instead. At the time, the company released a statement assuring shoppers that, ‘there are plenty of other places to take a dip into the Lush world’, stating that customers could still engage with the brand through shops, events, through the customer care team and on other digital platforms like Lush Player, Lush.com and their Lush Labs app. However, it’s worth noting that some individual stores and Lush staff continued to be active on social media and the company even encouraged customers to continue using branded lush hashtags to promote their content organically. Meaning Lush would remain true to its anti-social media protest, whilst also still staying fresh on the screens of shoppers across the globe.

SpaceX & Tesla

Following Elon Musk’s bold decision to delete both SpaceX and Tesla’s business Facebook pages, the company went on the make an even bolder move in 2020, officially dissolving it’s entire PR department; dubbing it the first automaker to no longer engage with the press. When asked to comment on the move, the billionaire business magnate stated that he wouldn’t go back to having a PR department because he ‘doesn’t believe in manipulating public opinion,’. He responded to a twitter user that encouraged the reinstatement of the Tesla PR team, saying, ‘Other companies spend money on advertising & manipulating public opinion, Tesla focuses on the product. I trust the people.’

So, with a much-reduced social media presence and absolutely no PR staff, how does a multi-billion-dollar business like Tesla expect to stay ahead of the curve?

Well, the American clean energy company relies heavily on one of the most effective marketing strategies out there, word of mouth. Tesla runs a highly popular referral program that encourages customers to share their love for the brand with their friends and family. Tesla enthusiasts, and their referees can earn rewards like free supercharger miles and cash to spend on energy efficient products. Not only that, but the electric vehicle manufacturer also manages multiple customer forums, hosts a global ‘owners club’, and is regularly involved in giving back to the communities they operate in. All of which are great ways to establish a strong brand message without even so much as a ‘share’. However, it’s worth noting that Musk himself has been a driving force behind Tesla and SpaceX’s ongoing success. His loud, charismatic, and sometimes even controversial social media presence certainly draws enough attention to both brands…

Bottega Veneta

Founded in 1996 in Vicenza, Italy by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro, Bottega Veneta has since firmly established itself as a high-end, luxury fashion house. Their fine leather handbags and quality crafted accessories don the frames of wealthy style icons in all corners of the world, that no doubt, enjoy scrolling as much as the rest of us.

Which is precisely what Bottega Veneta was counting on…

Despite not posting on their business account anymore, Bottega Veneta lives on through the Instagram pages of their loyal customers, influencers, and external partnerships. Rather than coming directly from the brand, content like product launches, events, and brand promotions make the rounds mainly through organic, user-generated content. Which enhances the brand’s exclusive image and cuts out a huge chunk of their workload. So, in theory, they can kick back and reap the rewards as customers are naturally drawn to their brand.

A strategy in which Bottega Veneta took to heart as at the time, the luxury brand doubled down on its quarterly online magazine in what they hoped would offer, “more progressive and more thoughtful” content. A goal in which many say they have successfully achieved since then. 

MacGregor Black’s Global Head of Marketing, Mark Thursby, commented:

“I couldn’t agree more with Kalyani Saha Chawla, in that many Luxury brands sit in a precarious position. One that almost caused the demise of the iconic British Fashion Brand Burberry during the 1990’s, where high demand was met with ease of accessibility. And I believe social media is currently turbocharging just that, or the false impression that luxury products are easily accessible.

Social media is a great equaliser in that it grants the average user access to countless celebrity and influencer lifestyles, mixed in with our friends and family. However, when our feeds are excessively filled with luxury goods, this directly drives demand to a potentially dangerous level. Therefore, when accessibility meets it, in the form of ‘replica’ products, via short-term financing options such as fashion rental, or services such as Klarna, a brand can pass a point of which it’s presence in a market is too heavily saturated and it ceases being perceived as ‘luxury’.

The same theory applies across the board. From cars, to homes, to holidays, and even our own physical appearance. When social media creates the illusion that all of these brilliant products are easily attainable, and not just that, they’re owned by your neighbour, your best friend, and the people you went to school with, the potential to damage a person’s self-esteem can be severe.

Therefore, with brands withdrawing from social media it’ll be very interesting to see what impact that has in the long-term. Will losing the central voice of their brand, do the opposite of what they aim to achieve, and create a more customer-controlled brand image? Or will it dampen demand down to sustainable levels and drive traffic through more ‘traditional’ channels where brands can better manage the battle between demand and access?”

Whilst there are many advantageous qualities to the root-and-branch reform of social media, something brands should consider is, one of most identifying features of a successful business is its powerful approach to customer loyalty. What social media offers consumers is the ability to receive quick responses via direct messaging, as well as the opportunity to engage with brands honestly and publicly on live comments. Some argue that, as a result of axing social media, businesses run the risk of potentially thinning the line of communication between themselves and their customers.

Is This the Way Forward?

Without doubt, social media is one of the most impactful and cost-effective marketing tools available today. But as we’ve recently discovered, some brands are beginning to stand up and take notice of the damage it may be causing to, not just to their customers or their brand image, but to wider society in general. Dubbed with a disregarding attitude towards mental health, rocky data management processes, and the potential to banish a brand’s luxury image, is the social media sparkle slowly dwindling?

And as globally recognised brands like Bottega Veneta, Tesla and Lush radically re-think their social media strategies, many of us are left asking the question, is this the beginning of the great social media snub?

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Case Study, Consumer, Cosmetics, Health & Beauty, Industry, Insight, Sustainability

Posted on 7 October 2022

For thousands of years, skincare has played a vital role in many of our daily routines.

As early as 4000 BCE, our ancestors have experimented with creative and resourceful ways to enhance their physical appearance. Now, one modern trend looks to reshape the multi-billion-dollar global industry.

MacGregor Black takes a closer look at the cosmetics industry and its latest development, ‘Clean Beauty’.

The Cosmetic Industry

The ancient Greeks lathered their faces with honey and the early Egyptians exfoliated their skin with salts extracted from the Dead Sea. Our historic desire for the perfect complexion has echoed throughout the ages, giving birth to a £395.7billion industry we know today as, the cosmetics industry.

An industry where, in more recent years, many brands have drifted away from traditional techniques and ingredients forged in nature, instead turning to science in the search for success. Whilst such techniques may well have resulted in cheaper, more convenient, and (admittedly) in many cases more effective products. There is a newfound spotlight shining brightly on the long-term effects of pursuing perfection.

Fast forward to present day and an increasing amount of consumers are beginning to pay close attention to the products they consume. Labels are used to educate rather than attract, ingredients are analysed and understood, and brand are now held to account for the impact they have on not only our skin, but the world around us.

The result?

Cosmetics companies from across the globe are beginning to ditch the new for the old… all in the name of the ‘Clean Beauty Movement’.

What is Clean Beauty?

At its core, clean beauty refers to cosmetic products that are free of hormone disrupters, carcinogens and other harmful chemicals or ingredients such as, petrolatum, parabens, oxybenzone, phthalates or artificial fragrances, to name but a few.

Led by a rise in conscious consumerism, clean beauty products are flooding the cosmetics industry. And are we really surprised? According to data collected by Statista Research, almost half of 13–19-year-olds are interested in trying clean beauty and personal care products. In fact, in today’s market, clean beauty products generate around £350 million per year, with forecasts expecting 600% growth by 2024, totaling to a whopping £20 billion worldwide.

Clean beauty products are not only defined by their use of safe, non-toxic ingredients but are also bolstered by their transparency. There is a conscious movement towards tearing down the wall of secrecy that has previously surrounded many well-known brands, as modern consumers seek to educate themselves to better the decisions they make. So much so, that according to a recent survey conducted by Statista Research, 66% of 13-39-year-olds are more likely to buy a personal care or beauty product that has a ‘clean’ label on it.

Long gone are the days when consumers shopped solely for designer names or fancy packaging alone. Ingredients are now firmly under the microscope, with favour falling heavily to transparent beauty brands that clearly list not only exactly what is in their products, but also omits ingredients that can potentially harm.

Now to some, the conversation may end there. After all, a ‘clean’ label must mean it’s clean, right? Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case. In truth, there is no legal or official definition for clean beauty at this moment in time. And in the absence of clearly defined rules bring ambiguity. Ambiguity that many brands have taken advantage of, seeking to define clean beauty according to their own agendas. Not only that, but the cosmetics industry sadly isn’t as regulated as we’d all like it to be and as a result, some brands have the ability to mislead their customers. For example, ‘fragrance’ is not an ingredient but due to the lack of detailed regulation, companies can hide toxic ingredients in their products under the banner term ‘Fragrance’.

This is precisely what Clean Beauty aims to correct.

What Else Could Be Considered ‘Clean Beauty?’

Fuelled by a sudden boom in the health and wellness sector, many brands have opted to launch products that are not only labelled as ‘clean’, but also ‘organic’, ‘cruelty-free’, ‘green’ or ‘natural’. We’ve broken down those terms for you below.

Organic

For a product to be dubbed ‘organic’, it must be composing of at least 95% organic materials, formulated using organic farming, handled and manufactured in coordination with specific laws, free of genetically modified ingredients and must be officially certified as ‘organic’. Unlike the food & drink industry, the term ‘organic’ in cosmetics has little regulation and unless a product has gone through an extensive testing process to become officially certified, it’s difficult to guarantee it contains truly organic ingredients. However, one thing to bear in mind is, in the United States the USDA organic certification isn’t cheap and therefore some smaller health and beauty companies operating out of the US can’t always afford to display the official USDA organic certification seal, despite their products being truly organic. So, it’s best to do your research!

According to data collected by Mordor Intelligence, the organic skincare market is expected to grow by 8.5% per year through to 2026. Currently, the market is primarily dominated by a select group of large cosmetics companies, however as more and more beauty brands reap the benefits of producing organic products, we expect to see a surge of new contributors entering into this space.

Cruelty-Free

With the same passion shown for their own health, many consumers are pushing for the cosmetics industry to also be more conscious of the effect they have on animals.

Unfortunately, the cosmetics industry has a long and ugly history of testing on animals. Thankfully, and in large part due to consumer backlash, this is slowly changing, and many beloved brands are now opting to test their products using other methods of research instead. For example, cosmetics companies can utilise vitro testing (the practice of testing on human cells and tissue), silico testing (testing using computer modelling techniques) and are also able to test their products with the help of human volunteers.

As cruelty-free brands become more popular, there’s a common misconception that these products are also ‘vegan’. Whilst cruelty-free products share the same sentiment as vegan products and aim to protect animals as much as possible, cruelty-free products can still contain ingredients derived from an animal, despite them not being sourced in ways that could prove harmful to the animal. For example, a product that contains honey could be considered cruelty-free, as extracting honey from the hive doesn’t harm to the bees, however, the product is not vegan as it still contains animal ingredients.

If you’d like to know which products are cruelty-free, keep your eyes peeled for official cruelty-free logos and certifications.

Green

Easily confused with ‘clean’ beauty, ‘green’ beauty refers to products that cause no harm to the environment. From its manufacturing to its ingredients, all elements of a green beauty product will have little to no impact on the planet.

One of the most talked about topics within green beauty right now is, sustainable packaging. According to a study conducted by specialist health & beauty agency, The Pull Agency, nine out of ten shoppers (88%; rising to 93% of Generation Z) look for sustainability credentials in their beauty and personal care purchases and a third (32%) have deliberately chosen a sustainable brand in the past.

However, despite the swelling demand from consumers, the cosmetics industry is one of the top contributors to plastic pollution, producing more than 120 billion units of packaging waste every year. This is because, sadly, much of the packaging used in the health and beauty sector is comprised of a mixture of materials that are extremely difficult, if not impossible, to recycle.

Natural

As reported by Nielsen, 40.2% of consumers say they look for natural ingredients when making a purchase. However, buzzwords like ‘natural’ are tricky to define.

In a nutshell, if a product is claiming to contain ‘natural’ ingredients, it’s more than likely referring to the essential oils inside the product. An essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile chemical compounds derived from plants, and depending on how concentrated the oils are, this could drastically change their effects on your health. Whilst they are natural, if they’re not formulated correctly, essential oils could damage the protective barrier across the skin, which is why when racing to grab the latest ‘natural’ products from the shelves, consumers should still always be conscious of the ingredients inside them. However, more often than not, essential oils incorporated within manufactured products go through a degree of regulation and are usually pretty safe to use.

How Much Damage Can Products Really Do?

Since there are little regulations around keeping harmful ingredients out of cosmetics, the clean beauty movement must be led by health-conscious-consumers and companies alike. Being aware of the effects that certain ingredients in products can have on both our safety and the planet is the first step down the path to true clean beauty.

Preservatives such as parabens, used by brands to increase the shelf life of their products, have been known to cause skin irritations, allergic reactions, and in some cases, have even been known to disrupt the hormones in our bodies, causing fertility issues and increasing the risk of cancer. And that’s just one ingredient!

Similar to parabens, phthalates, which are used to bind a product with a fragrance, can also cause allergic reactions, hormone disruptions and irritate our skin.

As you can see, some (not all) of the ingredients used in health and beauty products can have long lasting, harmful effects on our health, but did you know that some of them can also do just as much damage to the planet?

Oxybenzone is an ingredient most commonly found in sunscreens, used to protect our skin from the harsh UV rays. Although used in over 3500 sunscreens worldwide, this popular ingredient offers far less protection than we might think…Not only does oxybenzone act as a human hormone blocker, but it has also been known to bleach and cause serious damage to coral reefs. Many consumers aren’t aware of this, nor are they aware that there are many suncream brands out there that opt to use zinc-oxide or titanium oxide instead of oxybenzone, both of which are kinder on our skin and the planet.

We can understand why products using synthetic ingredients can often get a bad rep (especially after reading the above!) and whilst we might assume that natural ingredients are superior to lab-created synthetic ingredients, this isn’t always the case. In fact, after years of detailed research and development, many skincare brands have been able to create safe synthetic chemicals as a method of maintaining the purity of their products and increasing their shelf life. Which in turn, means less packaging waste and a smaller carbon footprint!

Brands to Watch

As the demand for clean beauty soars and an abundance of new products pop up in stores across the globe, it can be tricky to pin down which brands are truly clean.

MacGregor Black spoke with Health & Beauty sector specialist, Kriisti Atherton, to review her top clean beauty brands and why they made the cut.

The Ordinary

A common question many people have about clean beauty brands is, are the products worth the money? It seems that the cleaner the label, the steeper the cost and many consumers say they shy away from clean beauty products simply because of their extortionate price. This is where The Ordinary comes in.

It’s no surprise that bloggers, influencers and consumers are going mad for The Ordinary’s products. This brand aims to make skincare accessible. Most of the brand’s products cost less than £20, with some of their serums, creams and solutions costing as little as £5. Each of The Ordinary’s skincare formulations are simple, easy to understand and are free of additives, fillers, fragrances and dyes. Their packaging is minimal and straight-forward and their product labels explain exactly what’s inside them.

Kriisti Atherton comments:

“The Ordinary products are ideal for those who want to get straight to the point when it comes to their skincare. My favourite product from this range is their chia-seed oil, which personally I feel is massively underrated! It helps me with pretty much all of my skincare concerns (and even keeps my hair smooth and shiny!), from breakouts, to fine lines, to split ends. For me it’s magic.

I also really like their products in particular because they’re packed with evidence-based ingredients like retinol, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid, without the market leading prices people might usually be expected to pay.”

UpCircle Beauty

Founded in 2016 by siblings Anna and William Brightman, UpCircle is a brand that aims to make the most of the hundreds of prime cosmetic ingredients that end up in landfill each year. This affordable organic beauty brand has built themselves a credible reputation for fighting waste by for sourcing and re-using natural ingredients discarded by the food & drinks industries. In their products, you’ll find ingredients like coffee grounds, olive stones, kiwi juice, maple bark and apricot stones.

Health & beauty specialist, Kriisti Atherton commented in a statement:

“UpCircle beauty products hold a special place on my shelf. I’m actually using their body scrub made with tangerine and repurposed coffee grounds and the results have been amazing. The circular economy sits at the foundation of their brand, as they aim to reduce as much waste as possible through upcycling (hence the name UpCircle) and taking advantage of the many perfectly usable ingredients that end up in landfill each year. And to top it off, their products are palm oil free, vegan, cruelty-free, natural and sustainable. Plus, their packaging is 100% recyclable.”

Biossance

In 2003, Biossance patented a life-changing technology that allowed them to create an accessible cure for malaria. Today, the sustainable brand has turned to beauty, developing over 120 million skin-loving treatments, thanks to this technology. The ingredient most commonly found in their products is squalene, an oil Biossance produce entirely from sugarcane (rather than it’s typical source. Yep, you guessed it… shark livers!).

The brand prides themselves on their continued efforts in shark conservation, saving over 2 million of these ocean dwellers lives with their renewable squalene creations. Not only that, but their packaging is fully recyclable and in partnership with CarbonFund.org., they also plant trees and fund large restoration projects offshore each year.

Kriisti Atherton gives her insight:

“What I love about Biossance is their undying commitment to the environment! The company ships carbon neutral, is cruelty-free and has a green lab certification, meaning the brand meets the non-profit’s laboratory standards for energy consumption and usage. The company has also taken it upon themselves to personally ban over 2,000 harmful ingredients (like parabens and phthalates) from their products, further proving their passion for preserving the planet, as well as the safety of their customers.”

Monday Haircare

MONDAY is a dermatologically tested haircare brand that currently has people across the internet raving about its results. Their shampoo and conditioner formulations are free from SLS, parabens and are certified under the Leaping Bunny programme by animal protection and advocacy agency, Cruelty Free. Whilst also being recognised by PETA as a brand that has a zero-tolerance policy when it comes to testing on animals.

MacGregor Black’s beauty expert, Kriisti Atherton notes:

“I wanted to include a haircare brand in this round-up because the clean beauty movement isn’t just focusing on skincare or cosmetics, it extends to pretty much any personal care product out there.

With a focus on using natural ingredients, MONDAY is all about making luxury products more affordable for the average person. They don’t believe you should pay more for quality ingredients or fancy packaging, which still looks amazing and is 100% recyclable.”

In short, the Clean Beauty Movement encourages us to challenge the norm and push for what we feel is right. While cutting through the hype and investing your time into finding out which brands are truly ‘clean’ can be difficult, it’s worth remembering that the Clean Beauty Movement began out of a genuine need for transparency and higher-quality ingredients in the products we consume. Thanks to this demand, the industry is evolving, and more brands are tackling problems like the misuse of harmful ingredients, unethical practices, and misleading marketing.

By reframing the focus on the ingredients in our skincare and pushing for cleaner, natural, better-quality products, the Clean Beauty Movement holds the power to re-shape a multi-billion-dollar industry.

If you’d like to speak to our Global Health & Beauty Practice, get in touch today via hello@macgregorblack.com or +44 (0)191 691 1949

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