For thousands of years, skincare has played a vital role in many of our daily routines.
As early as 4000 BCE, our ancestors have experimented with creative and resourceful ways to enhance their physical appearance. Now, one modern trend looks to reshape the multi-billion-dollar global industry.
MacGregor Black takes a closer look at the cosmetics industry and its latest development, ‘Clean Beauty’.
The Cosmetic Industry
The ancient Greeks lathered their faces with honey and the early Egyptians exfoliated their skin with salts extracted from the Dead Sea. Our historic desire for the perfect complexion has echoed throughout the ages, giving birth to a £395.7billion industry we know today as, the cosmetics industry.
An industry where, in more recent years, many brands have drifted away from traditional techniques and ingredients forged in nature, instead turning to science in the search for success. Whilst such techniques may well have resulted in cheaper, more convenient, and (admittedly) in many cases more effective products. There is a newfound spotlight shining brightly on the long-term effects of pursuing perfection.
Fast forward to present day and an increasing amount of consumers are beginning to pay close attention to the products they consume. Labels are used to educate rather than attract, ingredients are analysed and understood, and brand are now held to account for the impact they have on not only our skin, but the world around us.
The result?
Cosmetics companies from across the globe are beginning to ditch the new for the old… all in the name of the ‘Clean Beauty Movement’.
What is Clean Beauty?
At its core, clean beauty refers to cosmetic products that are free of hormone disrupters, carcinogens and other harmful chemicals or ingredients such as, petrolatum, parabens, oxybenzone, phthalates or artificial fragrances, to name but a few.
Led by a rise in conscious consumerism, clean beauty products are flooding the cosmetics industry. And are we really surprised? According to data collected by Statista Research, almost half of 13–19-year-olds are interested in trying clean beauty and personal care products. In fact, in today’s market, clean beauty products generate around £350 million per year, with forecasts expecting 600% growth by 2024, totaling to a whopping £20 billion worldwide.
Clean beauty products are not only defined by their use of safe, non-toxic ingredients but are also bolstered by their transparency. There is a conscious movement towards tearing down the wall of secrecy that has previously surrounded many well-known brands, as modern consumers seek to educate themselves to better the decisions they make. So much so, that according to a recent survey conducted by Statista Research, 66% of 13-39-year-olds are more likely to buy a personal care or beauty product that has a ‘clean’ label on it.
Long gone are the days when consumers shopped solely for designer names or fancy packaging alone. Ingredients are now firmly under the microscope, with favour falling heavily to transparent beauty brands that clearly list not only exactly what is in their products, but also omits ingredients that can potentially harm.
Now to some, the conversation may end there. After all, a ‘clean’ label must mean it’s clean, right? Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case. In truth, there is no legal or official definition for clean beauty at this moment in time. And in the absence of clearly defined rules bring ambiguity. Ambiguity that many brands have taken advantage of, seeking to define clean beauty according to their own agendas. Not only that, but the cosmetics industry sadly isn’t as regulated as we’d all like it to be and as a result, some brands have the ability to mislead their customers. For example, ‘fragrance’ is not an ingredient but due to the lack of detailed regulation, companies can hide toxic ingredients in their products under the banner term ‘Fragrance’.
This is precisely what Clean Beauty aims to correct.
What Else Could Be Considered ‘Clean Beauty?’
Fuelled by a sudden boom in the health and wellness sector, many brands have opted to launch products that are not only labelled as ‘clean’, but also ‘organic’, ‘cruelty-free’, ‘green’ or ‘natural’. We’ve broken down those terms for you below.
Organic
For a product to be dubbed ‘organic’, it must be composing of at least 95% organic materials, formulated using organic farming, handled and manufactured in coordination with specific laws, free of genetically modified ingredients and must be officially certified as ‘organic’. Unlike the food & drink industry, the term ‘organic’ in cosmetics has little regulation and unless a product has gone through an extensive testing process to become officially certified, it’s difficult to guarantee it contains truly organic ingredients. However, one thing to bear in mind is, in the United States the USDA organic certification isn’t cheap and therefore some smaller health and beauty companies operating out of the US can’t always afford to display the official USDA organic certification seal, despite their products being truly organic. So, it’s best to do your research!
According to data collected by Mordor Intelligence, the organic skincare market is expected to grow by 8.5% per year through to 2026. Currently, the market is primarily dominated by a select group of large cosmetics companies, however as more and more beauty brands reap the benefits of producing organic products, we expect to see a surge of new contributors entering into this space.
Cruelty-Free
With the same passion shown for their own health, many consumers are pushing for the cosmetics industry to also be more conscious of the effect they have on animals.
Unfortunately, the cosmetics industry has a long and ugly history of testing on animals. Thankfully, and in large part due to consumer backlash, this is slowly changing, and many beloved brands are now opting to test their products using other methods of research instead. For example, cosmetics companies can utilise vitro testing (the practice of testing on human cells and tissue), silico testing (testing using computer modelling techniques) and are also able to test their products with the help of human volunteers.
As cruelty-free brands become more popular, there’s a common misconception that these products are also ‘vegan’. Whilst cruelty-free products share the same sentiment as vegan products and aim to protect animals as much as possible, cruelty-free products can still contain ingredients derived from an animal, despite them not being sourced in ways that could prove harmful to the animal. For example, a product that contains honey could be considered cruelty-free, as extracting honey from the hive doesn’t harm to the bees, however, the product is not vegan as it still contains animal ingredients.
If you’d like to know which products are cruelty-free, keep your eyes peeled for official cruelty-free logos and certifications.
Green
Easily confused with ‘clean’ beauty, ‘green’ beauty refers to products that cause no harm to the environment. From its manufacturing to its ingredients, all elements of a green beauty product will have little to no impact on the planet.
One of the most talked about topics within green beauty right now is, sustainable packaging. According to a study conducted by specialist health & beauty agency, The Pull Agency, nine out of ten shoppers (88%; rising to 93% of Generation Z) look for sustainability credentials in their beauty and personal care purchases and a third (32%) have deliberately chosen a sustainable brand in the past.
However, despite the swelling demand from consumers, the cosmetics industry is one of the top contributors to plastic pollution, producing more than 120 billion units of packaging waste every year. This is because, sadly, much of the packaging used in the health and beauty sector is comprised of a mixture of materials that are extremely difficult, if not impossible, to recycle.
Natural
As reported by Nielsen, 40.2% of consumers say they look for natural ingredients when making a purchase. However, buzzwords like ‘natural’ are tricky to define.
In a nutshell, if a product is claiming to contain ‘natural’ ingredients, it’s more than likely referring to the essential oils inside the product. An essential oil is a concentrated hydrophobic liquid containing volatile chemical compounds derived from plants, and depending on how concentrated the oils are, this could drastically change their effects on your health. Whilst they are natural, if they’re not formulated correctly, essential oils could damage the protective barrier across the skin, which is why when racing to grab the latest ‘natural’ products from the shelves, consumers should still always be conscious of the ingredients inside them. However, more often than not, essential oils incorporated within manufactured products go through a degree of regulation and are usually pretty safe to use.
How Much Damage Can Products Really Do?
Since there are little regulations around keeping harmful ingredients out of cosmetics, the clean beauty movement must be led by health-conscious-consumers and companies alike. Being aware of the effects that certain ingredients in products can have on both our safety and the planet is the first step down the path to true clean beauty.
Preservatives such as parabens, used by brands to increase the shelf life of their products, have been known to cause skin irritations, allergic reactions, and in some cases, have even been known to disrupt the hormones in our bodies, causing fertility issues and increasing the risk of cancer. And that’s just one ingredient!
Similar to parabens, phthalates, which are used to bind a product with a fragrance, can also cause allergic reactions, hormone disruptions and irritate our skin.
As you can see, some (not all) of the ingredients used in health and beauty products can have long lasting, harmful effects on our health, but did you know that some of them can also do just as much damage to the planet?
Oxybenzone is an ingredient most commonly found in sunscreens, used to protect our skin from the harsh UV rays. Although used in over 3500 sunscreens worldwide, this popular ingredient offers far less protection than we might think…Not only does oxybenzone act as a human hormone blocker, but it has also been known to bleach and cause serious damage to coral reefs. Many consumers aren’t aware of this, nor are they aware that there are many suncream brands out there that opt to use zinc-oxide or titanium oxide instead of oxybenzone, both of which are kinder on our skin and the planet.
We can understand why products using synthetic ingredients can often get a bad rep (especially after reading the above!) and whilst we might assume that natural ingredients are superior to lab-created synthetic ingredients, this isn’t always the case. In fact, after years of detailed research and development, many skincare brands have been able to create safe synthetic chemicals as a method of maintaining the purity of their products and increasing their shelf life. Which in turn, means less packaging waste and a smaller carbon footprint!
Brands to Watch
As the demand for clean beauty soars and an abundance of new products pop up in stores across the globe, it can be tricky to pin down which brands are truly clean.
MacGregor Black spoke with Health & Beauty sector specialist, Kriisti Atherton, to review her top clean beauty brands and why they made the cut.
The Ordinary
A common question many people have about clean beauty brands is, are the products worth the money? It seems that the cleaner the label, the steeper the cost and many consumers say they shy away from clean beauty products simply because of their extortionate price. This is where The Ordinary comes in.
It’s no surprise that bloggers, influencers and consumers are going mad for The Ordinary’s products. This brand aims to make skincare accessible. Most of the brand’s products cost less than £20, with some of their serums, creams and solutions costing as little as £5. Each of The Ordinary’s skincare formulations are simple, easy to understand and are free of additives, fillers, fragrances and dyes. Their packaging is minimal and straight-forward and their product labels explain exactly what’s inside them.
Kriisti Atherton comments:
“The Ordinary products are ideal for those who want to get straight to the point when it comes to their skincare. My favourite product from this range is their chia-seed oil, which personally I feel is massively underrated! It helps me with pretty much all of my skincare concerns (and even keeps my hair smooth and shiny!), from breakouts, to fine lines, to split ends. For me it’s magic.
I also really like their products in particular because they’re packed with evidence-based ingredients like retinol, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid, without the market leading prices people might usually be expected to pay.”
UpCircle Beauty
Founded in 2016 by siblings Anna and William Brightman, UpCircle is a brand that aims to make the most of the hundreds of prime cosmetic ingredients that end up in landfill each year. This affordable organic beauty brand has built themselves a credible reputation for fighting waste by for sourcing and re-using natural ingredients discarded by the food & drinks industries. In their products, you’ll find ingredients like coffee grounds, olive stones, kiwi juice, maple bark and apricot stones.
Health & beauty specialist, Kriisti Atherton commented in a statement:
“UpCircle beauty products hold a special place on my shelf. I’m actually using their body scrub made with tangerine and repurposed coffee grounds and the results have been amazing. The circular economy sits at the foundation of their brand, as they aim to reduce as much waste as possible through upcycling (hence the name UpCircle) and taking advantage of the many perfectly usable ingredients that end up in landfill each year. And to top it off, their products are palm oil free, vegan, cruelty-free, natural and sustainable. Plus, their packaging is 100% recyclable.”
Biossance
In 2003, Biossance patented a life-changing technology that allowed them to create an accessible cure for malaria. Today, the sustainable brand has turned to beauty, developing over 120 million skin-loving treatments, thanks to this technology. The ingredient most commonly found in their products is squalene, an oil Biossance produce entirely from sugarcane (rather than it’s typical source. Yep, you guessed it… shark livers!).
The brand prides themselves on their continued efforts in shark conservation, saving over 2 million of these ocean dwellers lives with their renewable squalene creations. Not only that, but their packaging is fully recyclable and in partnership with CarbonFund.org., they also plant trees and fund large restoration projects offshore each year.
Kriisti Atherton gives her insight:
“What I love about Biossance is their undying commitment to the environment! The company ships carbon neutral, is cruelty-free and has a green lab certification, meaning the brand meets the non-profit’s laboratory standards for energy consumption and usage. The company has also taken it upon themselves to personally ban over 2,000 harmful ingredients (like parabens and phthalates) from their products, further proving their passion for preserving the planet, as well as the safety of their customers.”
Monday Haircare
MONDAY is a dermatologically tested haircare brand that currently has people across the internet raving about its results. Their shampoo and conditioner formulations are free from SLS, parabens and are certified under the Leaping Bunny programme by animal protection and advocacy agency, Cruelty Free. Whilst also being recognised by PETA as a brand that has a zero-tolerance policy when it comes to testing on animals.
MacGregor Black’s beauty expert, Kriisti Atherton notes:
“I wanted to include a haircare brand in this round-up because the clean beauty movement isn’t just focusing on skincare or cosmetics, it extends to pretty much any personal care product out there.
With a focus on using natural ingredients, MONDAY is all about making luxury products more affordable for the average person. They don’t believe you should pay more for quality ingredients or fancy packaging, which still looks amazing and is 100% recyclable.”
In short, the Clean Beauty Movement encourages us to challenge the norm and push for what we feel is right. While cutting through the hype and investing your time into finding out which brands are truly ‘clean’ can be difficult, it’s worth remembering that the Clean Beauty Movement began out of a genuine need for transparency and higher-quality ingredients in the products we consume. Thanks to this demand, the industry is evolving, and more brands are tackling problems like the misuse of harmful ingredients, unethical practices, and misleading marketing.
By reframing the focus on the ingredients in our skincare and pushing for cleaner, natural, better-quality products, the Clean Beauty Movement holds the power to re-shape a multi-billion-dollar industry.
If you’d like to speak to our Global Health & Beauty Practice, get in touch today via hello@macgregorblack.com or +44 (0)191 691 1949